A Brief History of Alpha Hydroxyl Acid and Alpha Hydroxyl Skin Care Products

One of the oldest and newest options for skin care is Alpha Hydroxyl Acid.  Centuries ago, women applied aged wine, sour milk, lemon juice and other acidic products to reduce the signs of aging.  Today these refined products are known as alpha hydroxyl skin care products.   A multitude of new & innovative alpha hydroxyl skin care products are now available, so which is right for you?

Understanding Alpha Hydroxyl Acid 

Alpha Hydroxyl Acid penetrates the skin (epidermis and upper dermis) to achieve exfoliation (sloughing of old skin cells).  Healthy cells are then regenerated which essentially reduces the signs of aging.  Alpha Hydroxyl Acid leaves the skin smoother, softer and lessens fine wrinkles and skin discoloration. 

Alpha hydroxyl skin care products are also used to reduce scaling, precancerous growths (actinic keratoses) on sun-damaged skin and acne.  Alpha Hydroxyl Acid and beta hydroxyl acid are in an infinite array of products, so how does one choose the correct formulation for his or her skin condition?

Alpha Hydroxyl Acid versus Beta Hydroxyl Acid 

Alpha hydroxyl acids include glycolic, malic and citric acids.  These acids dissolve in water and can penetrate into the epidermis and upper dermis. The overall effect is upper skin exfoliation.  To be effective, oily skin must be cleansed prior to application of the Alpha Hydroxyl Acid.

Beta hydroxyl acids, namely salicylic acids, are absorbed by the fat properties of the skin.  Skin is composed of water and fat molecules that limit penetration from the outside. Different from alpha hydroxyl acid, this acid can penetrate into the pores of the skin.  This helps clear pores and exfoliates the skin.  Beta hydroxyl acid also has anti-inflammatory properties resulting in less irritation, burning and stinging. 

New formulations combining beta and alpha hydroxyl acid are now being researched.  Ideally, a combination product offers the advantages of both hydroxyl acids.  

Alpha Hydroxyl Acid, specifically glycolic acid, is available in concentrations between 2% and 20%.  It is found in facial washes, toners, moisturizers, sunscreens and a host of other products. Beta hydroxyl acids are available in concentrations up to 2% and are also found in many commercial products.  Although higher concentrations can be more effective, other factors should be considered when evaluating and purchasing beta or alpha hydroxyl acid skin care products.

The effectiveness of beta or alpha hydroxyl skin care products (lotion or cream) is determined by its acidity. Chemically speaking, these products work better in an acidic environment.  Higher acid concentrations are not necessarily the most potent and the effectiveness is highly dependent on the formulation.   

Despite labeling, it is impossible to know the chemical composition or acidity of a given product. This is why it is important to purchase name brand products from reputable manufacturers.  Products cannot be compared based on the labeling. 

Recommendations:

Alpha hydroxyl skin care products are used for exfoliation, sun damage and acne however these products can cause skin irritation.. A red, flaky face is not necessarily a healthy face, not to mention an unhealthy presentation.   

Alpha Hydroxyl Acid washes are very effective for cleansing and exfoliating the skin.  This should be done at least twice daily.  Alpha Hydroxyl Acid lotions and creams should be applied at least oncedaily. Some individuals can apply twice daily without irritation.  Individual preference should dictate morning or nighttime application. 

Some scientists question simultaneous use of alpha hydroxyl skin care products with retinoic products and vitamin C.  (Retinoic acid and Vitamin C are also used for sun damage.)  Most people use the alpha hydroxyl skin care products in the morning and retinoic acid and Vitamin C in the evening.  It is essential to use a good sunscreen (SPF 15 or greater), giving UVA and UVB coverage. 

Remember progress is made in small steps. Used regularly over time, Beta and alpha hydroxyl skin care products are beneficial and very effective for daily skin maintenance.